Vinyl is one of the most popular materials in the light industry for car upholstery and advertising. This item owes such popularity to one of its properties, namely immunity to water, dirt, and other actions of the external environment. 

However, even such a powerful tool, such a powerful substance requires observance of some rules in handling if you are going to use it for a long time. But suppose you close your eyes to our advice. In that case, you run the risk of quickly deteriorating the quality of the material and its appearance, which will lead you to unnecessary spending on a new advertising poster.

So what are the ways to store vinyl rolls?

 1) Clean and shine the banner in time

Every item on the street or lying idle in your warehouse can get very dirty. Even vinyl material is not 100 percent immune to this. It’s easy to clean, especially when compared to cloth or cardboard products, so don’t be lazy or forget to do it periodically. In addition, vinyl advertisements do not risk peeling, yellowing, cracking, or tearing. So the main problem is its purity.

How often should you clean up the dirt from the material? Once within three months will be enough if the banner hangs outside the store, company, etc. But if it is under your supervision, just indoors, in a warehouse, for example, then once a year will be enough. Do not use stiff, abrasive brushes. Instead, buy a regular sponge washcloth and mild soap. You should also avoid exposing your poster to chemicals, as you can destroy its structure. Also, forget about acetone, alcohol, solvents, and oxidants.

 2) Always roll up your banner when not in use.

So it is better preserved and prevents the appearance of folds on the material, which later will be very difficult or even impossible to remove.

Do not forget about one subtlety: if your banner has graphics, you should fold the banner with the letters outward. This way, your lettering won’t stop being sticky and can be easily applied later on. But if something is printed on the surface, you need to fold it inward. This will prevent the banner from fading.

 3) Do not store in the epicenter of heat.

High temperatures and proximity to a heat source will worsen the poster’s condition very quickly, just lightning fast. Therefore, the best way to store vinyl is a little cool, room temperature, dry, and away from the sun, stove, batteries, etc. This way, the ink will not be reprinted on the other side of the banner, and it will not crack.

 4) Protect the banner from mechanical damage.

If you leave it open on a table, closet, etc., even if it is folded, you cannot be sure that no one will hook it with clothes, drop it, or something on it. Mechanical damage will also affect the material. Better buy a unique tube for banners.

The post Tips For Proper Maintenance And Storage Of Vinyl Banners appeared first on getgoru.com.

Quick project guide 

Hard labour – 5/10 

Skill level – 5/10 

The time needed – weekend project 

Finished size ±1800 (H) x 1800 (W)  x 1800 mm (D) Do it yourself for  ±R4 165: (shutterply  R2 400; poles R240; cement, stone, sand  R300; pine R350; screws, hinges R120; glue  R50; weather strip R55; primer, paint R650).

Project notes 

• We used 2440 x 1220 x 18 mm treated pine shutter ply sheets for the construction of the structure. 

• We used 44 x 22 mm pine for the window, door frames, and railings.

• We used 110 mm-diameter treated timber poles to create the ‘stilts’ on which our playhouse would rest. 

• We added a door and shutters from the timber that was cut away to create these openings. 

• We used grey roof paint on the roof and front walkway, and white on the exterior panels. 

REMEMBER  

Coat all surfaces of the timber to prevent warping and weather damage.

Tools 

• drill 

• 5mm drill bit, countersink  drill bit 

• tri-square 

• jigsaw 

• 10mm spanner 

• mitre clamp 

• pencil 

• measuring tape 

• mitre box and handsaw

Plus 

• waterproof wood glue 

• 16mm screws and 50mm  chipboard screws 

• T-hinges 

• 100mm coach screws 

• rubber weather strip 

• 60-grit sandpaper 

• primer and paint 

• paintbrush or foam roller

Get started 

1 Mark the outline of the floor panel on the ground and dig four 300mm diameter holes (about 500mm deep) about 300mm in from each corner. Position 800mm poles in the holes and fill them with sand, stone, and cement aggregate. Allow cement to set.

2 Fix the 96 x 32mm planks to the tops of the poles to create a framework for the floor. Add a brace midway along for additional support, then drill pilot holes (using 5mm drill bit) before fixing these to the poles with the coach screws.

3 Position the two (1800 x 900mm) panels on the framework and fix them in place around the edges.

4 Mark out the position of the windows and door opening and the angles for the roof pitch; use the jigsaw to cut these out. Then position two side panels at right angles and fix them together along the join and from below using the 50mm chipboard screws.

5 Now complete the house framework by fixing the remaining two wall panels in place.  Note  The 1300mm lengths should overlap the 1764mm sides.

6 Position the roof panels and fix in place.  TIP  Apply waterproof wood glue to the top edges of the wall panels before fixing in place.

7 Construct the railing frame by fixing the five 356mm lengths between each end and at intervals along the 1800 x 44 x 22mm lengths. Then fix it to the front of the floor panel.

8 Make up the two sets of stairs by fixing the four stair treads at angles between the uprights, then fix these to the edges of the ‘porch’ in the same way as above.

9 Construct the window frames using the four 400mm and eight 356 x 44 x 22mm lengths. Construct the outer framework, then add the cross-shape to the inside before fixing the frame inside the opening. Construct the door frame in the same way.

10 Make the shutters by halving the pieces taken from the walls to create the window openings with a jigsaw; then add hinges and fix these to the window frames. Trim the door panel to fit within the new, framed opening, add hinges and fix it in place.

Use 16 mm screws to fix the rubber weather strip over the joint to cap the roof and prevent water from seeping through the gap.

We fixed edging all around the roof and added a coping above the door to prevent water from flowing in.

Fix the railing firmly in position along the front of the ‘porch’.

To create a door handle; we cut the length of the branch, added some bolts with washers as spacers, and fixed these to the door.

Get busy making the windows 

1  Use the jigsaw to cut a 22 mm-wide slot midway along with each piece, as shown.

2  Overlap the 356mm length with the longer 400mm lengths to create the outer frame, then fix the inner frame in place.

3  Use 50 mm chipboard screws to fix the frames inside the openings. Then add hinges to the shutters and door, and fix the shutters to the window frames, right.

The post Building a Playhouse on Stilts with Fun appeared first on getgoru.com.

A steel-framed table with a stone top has a certain charm. It is not only attractive, but it will also withstand the elements – and the weight prevents it from being blown away or carried away.
Make sure the frame is rustproofed and the top sealed, to prevent staining.

Concrete class

Versatile concrete can be cast in virtually any shape you desire and painted in any color you wish, as often as you like – updating your garden decor at whim.

You’re looking at lifetime durability, too – rain or shine – so buy precast pieces from your nearest concrete retailer, or ask their craftsmen to cast something unique to your own design.

On the patio

To accommodate a dining set on your patio, you need a space of at least 2.5 x 2.5 m to house a four-seater table, says architect Sorina van Deventer. Although it’ll be a little cramped, you’ll be able to sit comfortably at the table and walk around behind guests’ chairs. The ideal space for a six- to eight-seater is 4.2 x 4.2 m because you need room to move – and space for your braai. The table itself needs about 900 mm free space around it, while chairs require about 450 mm.

Woven wonder

Simulated wicker is a hot new decor trend you’ll find in virtually every store right now. Produced from plastic or other synthetics, the furniture is woven to effect the same charm as genuine wicker, while being durable and environmentally friendly. Available in a wide variety of styles and colors, this furniture withstands the elements only up to a point; standing in the sun and rain permanently will result in fading and cracking.

Alluring Aluminium

Ideal for unprotected open spaces, aluminum furniture withstands the weather better than most other materials. It’s rust-resistant and maintenance-free, making it the perfect choice for someone who doesn’t have a patio or is not prepared to tackle regular maintenance. Buy the best quality you can afford: aluminum comes in different grades.

Before you buy, consider whether:

1. The furniture will be undercover, where it’s protected from the elements.
2. Space is an issue; will the chairs need to be folded and packed away?
3. The furniture needs to be moved regularly (from the patio to the lawn or
pool) and whether it’s lightweight enough for this.
4. The furniture has to do double-duty indoors as well.
5. You are prepared to carry out maintenance from time to time.

Fantastic plastic

Designer plastic furniture, and furniture made from polyethylene, generally
come with a fairly hefty price tag, but if you hunt around for long enough, you may find something to suit your budget. Available in a variety of ergonomic and organic shapes and a veritable rainbow of colors, plastic furniture should never be left outdoors permanently, because it will eventually discolor and crack.

Wooden delight

A perennially popular option available in a range of prices, the most popular
hardwoods are balau, saligna, meranti, and teak. Although wood can be left exposed to the elements to weather, regular oiling will add to its durability.

Imported Indonesian teak, in particular, is accustomed to a humid environment and will crack in South Africa’s dryer conditions unless properly sealed. Oil your wooden furniture regularly during the first year, and annually thereafter.

Avoid varnish, which will crack and flake – meaning you have to sand the furniture before resealing; no preparation is required before oiling.

The post Do You Need to Update Your Garden Furniture? appeared first on getgoru.com.